Robert Sinskey Vineyards

The Brothers Gris
A Noble Wine!

Little did they know it was a mutant when they named it the Grey Monk. The name dates from the 1300’s when Emperor Charles IV had the Cistercian Monks import cuttings from Burgundy into Switzerland to make his favorite beverage. In those days, the wine probably did not resemble our modern version of Pinot Gris… it was likely orange or copper in color and much more rustic than our current incarnation. I bet it was funky but delicious and somewhere between a white and a red wine, an attribute that would make it an ideal table wine to work with a broad array of cuisine from vegetables to seafood to meats… and the tannin from the skins helped preserve the wine and assist it in the aging process.

Fast forward to my lifetime when, in 1961, a famous Italian winery made the first white wine from these pinkish/blue to rust colored grapes and in the process created the day-drinking beverage of choice, Pinot Grigio. Who would have thought that this innovation would propel the mostly ignored variety into the second most popular white wine (after Chardonnay) in the world. Unfortunately, it’s popularity as a simple, easy-drinking wine obscures the fact that the wine - depending on where grown, hang time and vinification - can be produced in many different styles than the aforementioned simple white wine - from sweet and unctuous, to rustic and earthy. The chameleon-like qualities of this variety can make it difficult to get a handle on what the grape is about. The best are true to place and, not surprisingly, thrive in places where Pinot Noir grows best. After all, it is a mutation of Pinot Noir with an almost identical DNA. Which means it excels in the same cool-climate growing regions where it ripens more slowly, sugars up later and holds onto its mouth watering acidity better than in warmer climates.

The Carneros region is ideal for the Pinot Gris grape. The cool growing region near the bay provides impeccable fruit that allows RSV to interpret in several styles: Orgia, with its skin-contact style and copper hue, Pinot Gris Late with its nutty sweetness, and a pure rendition simply called Pinot Gris where the grapes are whole cluster pressed and cool fermented for a beautifully refreshing beverage that should become a staple in your royal dining room.

Yin Yang

There is a yin yang to RSV’s Pinot Gris. On one hand, it is full and voluptuous - like a ripe pear dipped in honey without the sweetness. On the other hand, there is a cut-like-a-knife preciseness from its bright acidity that adds focus and clarity to the finish and makes it a great partner to many styles of cuisine. RSV’s Pinot Gris can play nice with sweet and spicy ingredients like Mango Chutney. Mango chutney is sweet with a little gingery kick and a squeeze of acid. Toss it with winter squash or chicken and a pinch of chili flake and you have a sure hit on your hands - not only in the flavor department but also in the wine matching department. The Pinot Gris goes down so easily with this dish it belies how seriously well crafted the wine is. It is enjoyable to drink now but has the classic structure to lay down to let its complexity reveal itself after a few years in the bottle. You will be equally delighted whether you drink it now or save it for later.

Until the Next Wine....
Maria

EAT: Roasted Winter Squash OR Chicken with Mango Chutney

In the southern reaches of Napa and Sonoma, near the San Pablo Bay, one finds the organically farmed Three Amigos and Scintilla Sonoma Vineyards. They are the ideal locations for the finicky Pinot Gris grape. The cool climate allows the grapes to ripen slowly while maintaining natural acidity for a vibrant counterpoint to the rich and aromatic fruit.

The grapes were hand-harvested at night and delivered cold to the cellar door where they were whole cluster pressed and cool fermented to create a pure, aromatic and delicious wine.